Installing Interior in SUPERSTANG
I did not expect the interior to be nearly this much work. Just rip out the old stuff, install new carpet, and bolt everything back in right? Yea, I wish!
Taking it all apart: My Mustang is in really good shape with just over 100,000 original miles. It was owned since new by a good friend of mine who took very good care of it. She did not modify it at all so when I got it nothing was changed from stock. Since I know where every new wire goes and what each modification was for I figured it would be a snap. Well, I was wrong. The roll bar made working difficult. I could have removed it but the whole purpose was to give the carpet a "finished" look around the roll bar tube. That required leaving the roll bar in. All the wiring I had tucked through the console was now in the way to remove the old carpet. All the wiring I had installed was not only in the way but entered and exited carpet in many places. I ended up cutting the carpet into many pieces and removing it piece by piece. In all it took 2 days 8 hours each to remove the old interior.
I do not like loud cars. Convertibles are hard to keep quiet by nature of the top. Even with this I wanted to do everything I could to keep the interior as quiet as possible. I also have felt engine heat from the floorboards and wanted to solve this problem. I was looking at the possibility of installing Dynamat but found it would be several hundred dollars in just material. I ended up buying a product called Tru-Max Super Insulator Mat. It comes in large rolls that are 4' x 6' and requires a spray adhesive to install. I ordered two rolls and although I am happy with the final result I think it is probably worth the money to buy Dyamat. Dynamat is lighter and does not have a core that will hold moisture. The only time moisture would be a problem is if you were to allow a large amount of water to get into the insulation. Unfortunately I have been known to leave my top down in a parking lot and have been hit by the occasional rain storm - I will need to be more careful.
With the sound/heat insulation installed I placed an order for an ACC carpet kit. I was prepared for the carpet to be lighter duty than stock carpet - not all bad. The new carpet was significantly lighter than the stock carpet and at first I was very worried about how it would work. As it turns out it looks great and I am very glad it is "lighter". One thing I did do was pull all the insulation that comes attached to the back of the ACC carpet off. The reason was I had already installed way more insulation than regularly would be installed and found that the insulation on the carpet was very heavy. After all was said and done I bet the new carpet with insulation mat is lighter than the stock carpet. I also know it will be better insulated, produce less engine noise inside the car, and keep excess heat out.
Installing the carpet was easier than removing the old carpet. I was able to pull the carpet under the middle roll bar tube and able to finally get all the tucking and pulling needed to make it look right. It was a lot more work with the roll bar than a stock car would have been but easier than I expected after removing the old carpet.
I had previously installed a switch panel inside the console and also needed a place to mount the controls for the new seat heaters and seat coolers. I don't like obvious switches showing so I spent a lot of time re-wiring the interior to allow all of the switches to be very inconspicuous. I mounted the exhaust bypass switch along with the seat heater/cooler controls in the recessed tray under the armrest console lid. Where they sit now you can barely see them and they are easy to reach. I connected each of the wire harnesses to connectors so that the console lid can be removed to service wiring in the future. After installing all the wiring I found it was difficult to get the lid on the console without spending time to tuck each harness while lowering the console top in place. Once it is down each switch works great and is easy to operate.
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